Not sure about the AMS, but Bambu would be a good first printer

Might as well, everyone gets there eventually.

The glue stick for $4? Any old PVA glue stick will do.

And on both glass and PEI, I've found basic alcohol based hair spray to be the best. It's essentially PVA glue too, but you get a nice even thin coat that's drier and a bit harder than glue stick.

And even with PEI or other polymer print surfaces, the hairspray or glue is more often a critical release agent than a holding & adhesion promoter.

PETG is going to be a bit more trouble to dial in. It's going to be more prone to stringing, and "gooeyness" at higher temps you may try to accomplish something else you need the printer to do right. Then you'll be messing with retraction and jerk/acceleration... and  3D matrix of variables.

I think PETG will have more chemical resistance, seeing as PET is used in commercial retail/industrial product bottles.

ABS isn't bad, but I'd assume it's got less chemical/solvent resistance, seeing as how it's assembled as pipe for plumbing with solvent/glue.

Don't expect miracles from the Carbon Fiber. CF filaments do generally perform better, but it's nothing like actual CF string, long shreds, or cloth, and vacuum molded with resin & baked.

The layer/strand deposition lines in FDM, the CF shreds in there barely link or overlap between the layers. The benefit is that whatever tiny amount you get is better than "none" in a non-CF filament.

Each additional layer going down from the nozzle can envelop whatever almost microscopic CF fuzz might be protruding from the previous lines for the brief moment its still molten, but the CF crosslinking you get is still generally less than the diameter of the layers.

So CF parts are definitely stronger. They do better on all the deflection & torsion tests, where you just print a rod of it and hang weights from it off a table edge. But any FDM 3D printed part will always perform best under compression, rather than deflection, tension, or shear.

I haven't looked into it, but maybe oven annealing of CF filament prints gets a little "flow" and the fibers migrate a bit? Or, that's not "a thing" or has all the other drawbacks of possible warpage, slump, and dimension changes. And from my perspective, annealing 3D prints seems like a risky hassle, and you're better off with just basic PLA as a mold positive or prototype fir some other sort of manufacturing like metal or polymer casting, resins, fiberglass, or traditional carbon fiber.

For stock spacers, where it's mostly compression, and compression would additionally support against any tensile or deflection loads, if there even are any, I think it would do well. And ypu probably won't need CF at all.

PETG on bare glass can adhere so hard, it'll pull chunks of glass off the plate. And all the freezer tricks, or heat from a hairdryer won't pop it loose.

I'd say the risk to any four figure 3D printer is the same as any expensive equipment or tools. Mainly if you don’t actually use it. And the flip side with a introductory inexpensive printer is if you do use it, you're just out additional money & time when upgrading to the four-figure printer.

However, if you did get your feet wet with an inexpensive basic printer, and find you will print a lot, there is a potential upside that it could still be useful to churn out parts or other projects simultaneously while the better printer is running other prints.

Why glue stick at all? It isn't needed or wanted for abs, petg, pla, tpu etc. These have build sheets, no glass bed anymore.