User Panel
[#4]
Awesome stuff.. Definitely looking into using Crow products now.
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illegitimi non carborundum, post proelia praemia
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[#5]
Copied-and-Pasted from the larger thread... a follow-up to the sensors mentioned above:
OK. So everyone following this thread will recall my section on adding external sensors to your cameras. They're generally superior to video-motion-detection in every way... but even high-quality sensors can get fooled. I'm about to show you how/why that can happen. Recall the Crow sensors I've been using. Crow makes very high-end detectors. The company is Israeli, and you know the Israelis always make good stuff. Anyway, adding the dual-element PIR to my camera GREATLY cut down on my false alerts. In fact, I wasn't getting any false alerts at all... and then the weather started to warm up. There was a definite pattern to it. The false alerts would start in the afternoon, usually about 1-2PM, and I'd get one every so often, with nobody in the images that were arriving. I was puzzled. And then I looked at the scene again: Yep. Right there. The warm air currents from that AC unit were just enough to trigger the occasional false alert on warm days... even with the detector sensitivity turned all the way down. Screw that. I want my alerts to be meaningful. So I went with a slightly different model... Crow's EDS-3000. This little bugger actually includes a quad PIR, and a K-band microwave radar element inside. The entire sensor assembly rotates through almost 180 degrees inside the housing, enabling the sensor to be flat-mounted to a wall, and the sensor array turned either direction. I went with the same mounting location, just for testing purposes (the wiring, all identical hookups to the previous Crow sensor, was already there). Problem was, the mounting location was too high... the regular Crow D&D dual-PIR is supposed to be mounted 7-8 feet off the ground for best results. This unit is supposed to be mounted at 4-5 feet. There was no way to do it right there. Where I'd placed it, it was scanning at fence-top height, and I was getting PIR-and-radar hits on feral cats at night... like this little bugger So I went back to plan "A." I took the original D&D PIR sensor and mounted it further down the wall, away from that AC unit. I also used a shallow outlet box to wall-mount it, and some conduit to run the wiring up to the attic. The electronic board of that D&D sensor is easily removable: And here it is mounted: I walk-tested it, and there's no sneaking past that thing... no matter how slow you walk, and no matter how low you try to get. I'll update the forum on any further false-alarm problems as the weather warms up. |
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"How can you know so little about this and be occupying a chair at the time that you do?"
-Christopher Hitchens to Ron Reagan Jr. on the topic of terrorism- |
[#6]
Do you know where I can buy an alarm system composed by an ip camera and one external motion detector, as I have difficulty on mounting this equipment myself?
I have an IP camera with motion deteccion, but due to sunlight changes, I have many false alarms. And I think this is a common problem. It is necessary to have an external sensor to prevent false alarms. Thank you. |
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[#7]
Originally Posted By ccardoso:
Do you know where I can buy an alarm system composed by an ip camera and one external motion detector, as I have difficulty on mounting this equipment myself? I have an IP camera with motion deteccion, but due to sunlight changes, I have many false alarms. And I think this is a common problem. It is necessary to have an external sensor to prevent false alarms. Thank you. View Quote Some cameras have integrated PIR elements into the camera body. Mobotix does it, Axis does it with some of their models, and Vivotek does as well. You'd get FAR fewer false alerts with PIR detection, especially when you compare it to video motion detection. |
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[#8]
not sure if this is the right place, but can a home system be set up to notify the police without a dedicated monitoring service like ADT? I'm looking at a system for the new house in FL, and all I wanted were cameras but she seems to want the police notified in case someone breaks in while I'm away.
Or would I be looking at sending her phone an alert and she calls? |
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[#9]
Originally Posted By IHTFP08:
not sure if this is the right place, but can a home system be set up to notify the police without a dedicated monitoring service like ADT? I'm looking at a system for the new house in FL, and all I wanted were cameras but she seems to want the police notified in case someone breaks in while I'm away. Or would I be looking at sending her phone an alert and she calls? View Quote I think they all have a "service" that they call. I don't know if there's a law against the alarm directly contacting the police, but I doubt the police would be thrilled about a bunch of false alarms clogging up their 911 system. |
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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[#10]
Is adding these sensors to a Hikvision camera and Hikvision DVR good to go as well? Thank you!
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[#11]
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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[#12]
Sorry for more questions!
I am running conduit and cat 6 direct bury wire to three locations around the property to get a better camera view of my actual house. I am just going with hikvision as that is what my entire system has. Actually already ordered from BH. Anyway I'm guessing I may need/want to add PIR sensors and will prob go with the crow stuff you mentioned. Can I run DC through cat 6? Or do I need to pull like 18ga double wire? Thank you! |
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[#13]
Originally Posted By Abrenneman:
Sorry for more questions! I am running conduit and cat 6 direct bury wire to three locations around the property to get a better camera view of my actual house. I am just going with hikvision as that is what my entire system has. Actually already ordered from BH. Anyway I'm guessing I may need/want to add PIR sensors and will prob go with the crow stuff you mentioned. Can I run DC through cat 6? Or do I need to pull like 18ga double wire? Thank you! View Quote I'd run 18ga 2-conductor bell wire along with your cat6. It'll go in the same conduit easily. |
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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[#14]
Originally Posted By TheGrayMan:
I'd run 18ga 2-conductor bell wire along with your cat6. It'll go in the same conduit easily. View Quote Alright done! Just need to order some pir sensors and a Dc injector. Do you have a recommendation for a injector that would be for maybe 6 pir sensors at most? No need for IR illuminators or anything. |
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[#15]
It can be a very small power supply. An active PIR will pull maybe 10-20mA... that's almost nothing... it's like a tenth of a watt.
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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[Last Edit: Abrenneman]
[#16]
So something like This
Cut the wire ends off and connect to a junction box, that has the 18ga wires ran to my sensors and I am good to go? Sorry for all the questions, never really worked with DC before like this and don't want to fry my sensors. And then just turn the power up to 12, or up slowly until it all works? Thanks again! ETA I am having a hard time finding crow PIR Sensors in the US! |
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[#17]
Crow is Israeli... I get them off eBay mostly. Optex can be used as an alternative... they're available on Amazon.
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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[#18]
Thank you very much for posting this thread.
While my camera system is not natively able to work with this, I have some ideas of how to retrofit support onto it. |
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NOLO FOR NRA
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[#19]
It's time for a long-needed update to this thread.
By now, many posters are familiar with the Hikvision brand of cameras. Hikvision came on the market a few years ago, and have really pushed a new standard in the quality-for-$$$ category. The price-points of Hikvision (and their competitor Dahua) have become so affordable that many members have installed (or are considering installing) these systems. With that in mind, let's discuss how to make your Hikvision system smarter... with sensors. Alarm sensors have been used for decades in the construction of regular home burglar alarm systems, and most are electrically quite simple. They are generally either NO or NC (Normally-Open, or Normally-Closed) switches, and the alarm panel/brain monitors the state of these switches by running a very low-voltage/amperage current through the sensor. If a NC (Normally Closed) sensor (like a reed switch on a door or window) experiences a change-of-state (eg. the window/door opens, moving the magnet away from the reed switch, and the connection opens, breaking continuity) the current stops flowing, and the panel/brain detects it. The same can happen when current suddenly flows through a NO (Normally-Open) sensor, when it was an open connection before. Here is a link that explains it Simple mechanical sensors like reed switches are as dead-nuts reliable as a sensor can get (as long as the magnet retains its magnetism)... but their application is limited to a defined opening/door/window/gate. Fortunately, there are other sensors that can cover a much wider area, with reliability that is nearly as good. This brings us to PIR and Microwave sensors. These are the "motion detectors" that everybody has probably seen a thousand times in standard household burglar alarms. They are usually mounted in a corner, and cover a room in the house. Fortunately, that's not nearly the limit of their utility. They can also be mounted outdoors, and cover perimeter areas on your property, or the yard around your house. These are the sensor technology behind some "driveway" alarms, and many game-cameras. Here are several examples. Going from Left-to-Right, we have an Optex LX-402, a Crow SRX-360, and a Crow Double-Dual (DD): All are outdoor-rated, but the Optex only uses a single PIR sensor. The SRX has dual-sensors (PIR and Microwave). The DD has dual PIRs. Here are close-ups of the Optex, the SRX, and the DD, respectively: Note what you see on all of the close-ups. All three of these sensors have 12v DC input (note the +/- terminals; you can't read them on the Optex, but it's the left-most terminals), and NO/NC connections, usually next to a "C" or "COM" connection, which would be the ground (the alarm connections are marked "relay" on the SRX, and are a NC zone). The NC/NO/Relay connections are the ones that go to the camera. It's two wires; you can't get it wrong. So each sensor requires four wires: two for power, and two for signal to the camera or alarm panel. Standard alarm wire has four conductors for this reason (circled in red): We are going to use the Optex as our example sensor. The Hikvision "Alarm" connector looks like another connector on the camera (the "Audio" connector), and you have to read the imprint on the plastic to determine which one you have. Going from right-to-left in the below picture, the Alarm connector has four connections: I, GND, O, and another GND. For the input from your sensor, you need to connect wires to "I" (for input) and the immediately-adjacent "GND." You can see they are standard screw-down terminals (end-on view:) When the PIR is hooked up to both power, and the camera, it looks like this. 12v DC hooked up to the PIR, and the two wires going from PIR to camera. After that, it's all software config in the camera. I'll cover that in my next post. Referring to the pic below, on the camera side, the Green wire is attached to GND terminal, and the Yellow wire is connected to "I" (or input) terminal. On the PIR side, the GND terminal on the PIR is directly between the NO, and the NC terminals. So the connectors on the PIR side, going from left-to-right are (+) (-)... skip to next connector block... NC, GND, NO. Make sense so far? |
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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[Last Edit: TheGrayMan]
[#20]
So here's the software configuration within the Hikvision cameras (latest Firmware version, as of this post).
Start at the "Network" configuration section, and make sure you click "Advanced Settings" in the left-most column. The "Basic" section doesn't allow email configuration, but the "Advanced Settings" section will give you the option of configuring an email server. Click the Email tab at the top of the page (red arrow): Once you're in "Advanced Settings" and "Email," you need to enter the settings for whatever email server or email relay service you're using. If you have a company email server, you can enter the IP address, sender, etc. Sender: just a name Sender's address: This is an email address... [email protected], or whatever. SMTP server: This is the IP address of your mailserver. It can be local, or remote. SMTP port: Usually 25, but can be on other ports, depending on your mail service. You can use anything you like... but as an example, the instructions for relaying through Google's G-suite are here. There are others... googling for "SMTP relay service" will give you plenty of options (usually 5-10 bucks a month or so), or you can set up your own mailserver if you have the geek chops to make it work. Click "attached image" to get an image in your email, and I usually pick 5s as the time interval. That gives me about three images per-email. Authentication: enter whatever your service requires. I use IP authentication, so I don't have to worry about this section. As long as the email comes from a certain IP, the service will forward it. Don't forget to click the "Test" button (red arrow) to make sure it all works before moving on. That's the hard part... the rest is easy. Here's the "Basic Event" section. Note the red-dotted fields/buttons. There is only one alarm input, so the A<--1 is checked by default. The alarm type is NO (Normally-Open), so we have that selected. You could just as easily use a NC sensor, and simply change this field to NC The "Arming Schedule" tab in the middle of the page is highlighted, enabling you to determine exactly when the camera will pay attention to the sensor (the sensor is always active... but unless it's during one of the blue time-periods, the camera will ignore the input). Clicking on a day will allow you enter time intervals, and then repeat them on various days, or set each day with a custom time schedule. This person has kids, so this camera alarm is set to be active during the day when owner is at work and kids are at school, and at night... it's largely inactive during the weekend, when kids are home and running around. Clicking the "Linkage Method" tab will bring up the options of what you want the camera to do with the alarm. Ensure the "Alarm Type" is still "NO" Enable Alarm input handling Under "Normal Linkage" click "Send Email," and an email will be sent every time the alarm is triggered. That should do it. Now as you look at those pages, you can see that other options exist. You can also enable alarm OUTPUT from that camera. This output can be fed to an alarm system, a buzzer, a relay, a chime, a light... the options are endless. It can also trigger internal recording inside the camera (to a microSD card), so you have backup images in case the bad guys steal your DVR/NVR. |
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Everything you are doing is wrong, and it is my sworn duty to resist you.
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[#21]
I need to look at this a bit more.
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This deplorable white devil has given up on politicians.
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