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Posted: 5/12/2024 9:49:48 AM EDT
I finally have to replace one in my old 2007 powerwagon. I've pulled them before to change front axle joints, but they were always fine and I just reinstalled them. The reviews on replacements are always shit, doesn't matter if they're Timken, MOOG or any of the parts house brands. A lot of "failed at less than 5000 miles" comments. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:03:36 AM EDT
[#1]
I tend to try to stay OEM or SKF, etc on bearings. Timken is sometimes overseas now too.
I tend to temper the reviews with the understanding that it's certainly possible to get bad stuff out of the box, and it happens more often now, but it's entirely possible that it was installed by a retard. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:13:29 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Agilt: I tend to try to stay OEM or SKF, etc on bearings. Timken is sometimes overseas now too. I tend to temper the reviews with the understanding that it's certainly possible to get bad stuff out of the box, and it happens more often now, but it's entirely possible that it was installed by a retard. I also take the retard thing into account.  But most of the aftermarket hub assemblies have always had less than stellar reputations. I tried looking on the online Mopar parts sites and can't seem to find a OEM one. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:17:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Into_the_Void]
[#3]
Stick with timken. Even if their quality has gone down, they're still the safest bet.
Hasn't skf gone completely to China? Keep in mind failure rates have probably gone up from assholes running 14" wheels with 13" offsets |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:20:54 AM EDT
[#4]
I use primarily Timken for all things.
Bad parts from good manufacturers are rare, far more often the problem is with who installed them. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:21:29 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NwG: I use primarily Timken for all things. Bad parts from good manufacturers are rare, far more often the problem is with who installed them. How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing |
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NY, USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:22:58 AM EDT
[#6]
Made in Japan KOYO are some of the best.
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FL, USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:24:45 AM EDT
[#7]
I tend to not care about bearing brands so much as where it's made. Obviously i prefer American made first, followed by other 1st world countries like japan, germany, korea etc. I avoid bearings made in 3rd world shit holes like china, vietnam, pakistan, malaysia, etc if at all possible.
I just recently put in a clutch on my Miata. I made it a point to get the japanese made clutch kit by exedy. It came with a japanese made throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Actually all the parts in the clutch were made in japan. Exactly what I wanted. The japanese made clutch kit was $150. The chinese clutches are $50. This also does for auto parts in general, I really try to avoid the chinese made stuff if I can. It's not always possible to avoid chinese auto parts, but I do it whenever possible. It seems like they really cheat on material quality. Chinese bearings are junk. So are their cv joints, u joints, and any thing else that is precision. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:25:34 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Stick with timken. Even if their quality has gone down, they're still the safest bet. Hasn't skf gone completely to China? Keep in mind failure rates have probably gone up from assholes running 14" wheels with 13" offsets I live close to the Summit Racing warehouse in Ohio and they have the Timkins in stock. I may have to go pick one up in the morning if I can't locate an OEM hub online today. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:28:39 AM EDT
[#9]
Originally Posted By Jeffg: Made in Japan KOYO are some of the best. Koyo was the other I was trying to think of. Everything I've got from Toyota that I can remember is from Toyo. Good stuff Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Have you met the public?
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:32:40 AM EDT
[#10]
SKF, FAG, TIMKEN, NSK, NTN, NACHI, and KOYO, are all OEM to various car manufactures.
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:33:58 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Agilt: Koyo was the other I was trying to think of. Everything I've got from Toyota that I can remember is from Toyo. Good stuff Have you met the public? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Agilt: Originally Posted By Jeffg: Made in Japan KOYO are some of the best. Koyo was the other I was trying to think of. Everything I've got from Toyota that I can remember is from Toyo. Good stuff Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Have you met the public? Yeah, but follow my logic. If you're dumb enough to fuck up a unit bearing, you're not smart enough to get it out. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:33:59 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing I’ve asked myself the same question on a great number of parts that have passed through my shop in 20+ years. All I can figure is it started a long time ago when someone thought a bigger rock was the answer. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:37:05 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Waldo]
[#13]
Might as well change the axle joint while it's apart as it's pretty old too.
Off to try to find a Spicer 5006813. Edit, locally. 
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:38:55 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NwG: I’ve asked myself the same question on a great number of parts that have passed through my shop in 20+ years. All I can figure is it started a long time ago when someone thought a bigger rock was the answer. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NwG: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing I’ve asked myself the same question on a great number of parts that have passed through my shop in 20+ years. All I can figure is it started a long time ago when someone thought a bigger rock was the answer. I'm not familiar with this particular setup, but if it is possible to screw up the preload, that will do it to a bearing for sure, no matter the bearing quality. Too little is every bit as bad as too much. And as someone else noted, running a drastically different wheel offset will do it too. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:41:05 AM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Yeah, but follow my logic. If you're dumb enough to fuck up a unit bearing, you're not smart enough to get it out. Originally Posted By NwG: I’ve asked myself the same question on a great number of parts that have passed through my shop in 20+ years. All I can figure is it started a long time ago when someone thought a bigger rock was the answer. As NwG says: 
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USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:44:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: DayandNight1701]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Wtf is a "unit bearing?" I've been a mechanic for 20+ years and never heard the term. You mean a pre-installed hub flange wheel bearing and all you have to do is bolt it in? Say like on a 2004ish Chevy truck? |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:46:05 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By VVinci: I'm not familiar with this particular setup, but if it is possible to screw up the preload, that will do it to a bearing for sure, no matter the bearing quality. Too little is every bit as bad as too much. And as someone else noted, running a drastically different wheel offset will do it too. It would be hard to over torque it by hand since I think it's somewhere around 250-260 ft. lbs. Different story if you have a monkey with a 1" impact gun though. 
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:47:05 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: Wtf is a "unit bearing?" I've been a mechanic for 20+ years and never heard the term. You mean a pre-installed hub flange wheel bearing and all you have to do is bolt it in? Say like on a 2004ish Chevy truck? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Wtf is a "unit bearing?" I've been a mechanic for 20+ years and never heard the term. You mean a pre-installed hub flange wheel bearing and all you have to do is bolt it in? Say like on a 2004ish Chevy truck? Yes |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:47:18 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NwG: I use primarily Timken for all things. Bad parts from good manufacturers are rare, far more often the problem is with who installed them. I haven't had to replace one lately so maybe the quality has tanked, but I still buy timken at work anytime I can. My go to bearing company. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:50:16 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: Wtf is a unit bearing? I've been a mechanic for 20+ years and never heard the term. You mean a pre-installed hub flange wheel bearing and all you have to do is bolt it in? Say like on a 2004ish Chevy truck? They've gone by different descriptions over the years, unit bearings, hub assemblies, ect. They used to be called unit bearings because they were sealed in a unit and not serviceable individual cone/cups. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:50:44 AM EDT
[Last Edit: SkyFive]
[#21]
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USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:52:22 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: Yes #The more you know |
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USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 10:53:40 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SkyFive: FAG  It's pronounced "Fashe" and they make the best shit. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:00:09 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: It's pronounced "Fashe" and they make the best shit. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: Originally Posted By SkyFive: FAG It's pronounced "Fashe" and they make the best shit. No wonder I got weird looks at parts stores "Timken, skf, koyo, or faggot are fine" |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:08:32 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: I live close to the Summit Racing warehouse in Ohio and they have the Timkins in stock. I may have to go pick one up in the morning if I can't locate an OEM hub online today. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: Originally Posted By Into_the_Void: Stick with timken. Even if their quality has gone down, they're still the safest bet. Hasn't skf gone completely to China? Keep in mind failure rates have probably gone up from assholes running 14" wheels with 13" offsets I live close to the Summit Racing warehouse in Ohio and they have the Timkins in stock. I may have to go pick one up in the morning if I can't locate an OEM hub online today. Sounds like a plan. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:10:29 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: Wtf is a "unit bearing?" I've been a mechanic for 20+ years and never heard the term. You mean a pre-installed hub flange wheel bearing and all you have to do is bolt it in? Say like on a 2004ish Chevy truck? |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:25:21 AM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By turbobrick: Unit bearing has been the standard name for this type of arrangement since forever. I'd be concerned if someone calling themself a mechanic was unfamiliar with the term. Maybe in Vegas they talk like that. I never heard it either. we just call them wheel bearings. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:29:16 AM EDT
[Last Edit: xd341]
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Squeefoo: Maybe in Vegas they talk like that. I never heard it either. we just call them wheel bearings. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:31:46 AM EDT
[#29]
My 03 ram 2500 diesel has had AutoZone (dura last?) Front hubs on it for ~3 years and ~30k miles.
I started buying AutoZone parts because I was having OEM parts (AC Delco when I had a 2500 suburban)fail like clockwork right after the parts warranty ran out. I figured that if I was going to buy trash parts, I'd get trash parts with a lifetime warranty. I've had pretty good luck with them. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:33:26 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By NwG: I’ve asked myself the same question on a great number of parts that have passed through my shop in 20+ years. All I can figure is it started a long time ago when someone thought a bigger rock was the answer. Installation can cause as many failures or more than the bearing failure itself. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:33:36 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Waldo: It would be hard to over torque it by hand since I think it's somewhere around 250-260 ft. lbs. Different story if you have a monkey with a 1" impact gun though. Quite a few folks don’t realize it needs to be 250 ft lbs and they only go to 80/90 …problems soon follow. Heck a lot of folks don’t have a tq wrench that breaks 150. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:35:06 AM EDT
[#32]
Any bearing made in a country that is not China or India
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:37:36 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Wangstang: Quite a few folks don't realize it needs to be 250 ft lbs and they only go to 80/90 problems soon follow. Heck a lot of folks don't have a tq wrench that breaks 150. Torque is such a fussy thing to get accurate it's almost useless for the average person. That's why critical stuff is torque to yield these days, the smarts are in the fastener. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:40:22 AM EDT
[#34]
Originally Posted By VVinci: I'm not familiar with this particular setup, but if it is possible to screw up the preload, that will do it to a bearing for sure, no matter the bearing quality. Too little is every bit as bad as too much. And as someone else noted, running a drastically different wheel offset will do it too. Originally Posted By Waldo: It would be hard to over torque it by hand since I think it's somewhere around 250-260 ft. lbs. Different story if you have a monkey with a 1" impact gun though. I'd guess that most modern front hubs are killed by being too loose. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:41:17 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xd341: a wheel bearing is an individual loose bearing. Like you would have on a solid axle. Unit bearings or hubs are the assembly of multiple bearings, the wheel hub with it's studs and usually the ABS sensor that bolts in as a unit to the "spindle" which isn't really a spindle, the spindle is technically in the unit bearing attached to the hub. I know what it is. I just replaced 2 of them last week without destroying the dust shields. The issue was terminology. When I call my parts guy we just call them wheel bearings, which is what it is at the root, everybody knows what it is without being overly specific. If I called it a unit bearing, he would say they don't make one small enough for your unit and laugh. |
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USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:42:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: DayandNight1701]
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By turbobrick: Unit bearing has been the standard name for this type of arrangement since forever. I'd be concerned if someone calling themself a mechanic was unfamiliar with the term. lol K     They don't call me Big Dick Daddy from Cincinnati for no reason. I also do heavy equipment but I'm getting old. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:45:38 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Squeefoo: I know what it is. I just replaced 2 of them last week without destroying the dust shields. The issue was terminology. When I call my parts guy we just call them wheel bearings, which is what it is at the root, everybody knows what it is without being overly specific. If I called it a unit bearing, he would say they don't make one small enough for your unit and laugh. Just laying out the definitions of the terms as I understand them Nice job not nuking the dust shields, I'm not too proud to tell you that I've done one in like 25 minutes only to get it all back together and realize I forgot to put the dust shield back on! fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuk!    |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:48:08 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xd341: a wheel bearing is an individual loose bearing. Like you would have on a solid axle. Unit bearings or hubs are the assembly of multiple bearings, the wheel hub with it's studs and usually the ABS sensor that bolts in as a unit to the "spindle" which isn't really a spindle, the spindle is technically in the unit bearing attached to the hub. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xd341: Originally Posted By Squeefoo: Maybe in Vegas they talk like that. I never heard it either. we just call them wheel bearings. You mean "knuckle". |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:48:33 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By whiskerz: Any bearing made in a country that is not China or India Almost every example of Caterpillar made equipment would fail by your statement. I will always look for the USA marking on bearings I buy, but Japan, Sweden and Denmark get a pass from me. New Cat equipment is a hodgepodge of foreign made components. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:53:30 AM EDT
[#40]
Timkin, SKF, National in that order.
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:57:02 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Rick-OShay: You mean "knuckle". |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 11:59:07 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Waldo]
[#42]
Well, I found a Timken locally.
The only place that has the Spicer axle joint in stock is Summit and I'm not going near that place today as it will be full of jorts wearers on the weekend. I'll go tomorrow morning.
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Posted: 5/12/2024 12:00:25 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xd341: yeah...I've heard that too. A steering knuckle to me at least is at the end of a solid axle...but picking knits... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By xd341: Originally Posted By Rick-OShay: You mean "knuckle". Correct. A knuckle is the turning part of a solid axle. Anything else is a spindle. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 6:44:10 PM EDT
[#44]
Holy crap, that fucking bearing was bad. Sounds like a corn grinder when you try to turn it.  The axle joint only has one bad cap/bearing, as usual with those things. 
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Posted: 5/12/2024 7:21:04 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Into_the_Void: How the hell can someone fuck up a unit bearing Nick |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 7:26:43 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Squeefoo: Maybe in Vegas they talk like that. I never heard it either. we just call them wheel bearings. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Squeefoo: Originally Posted By turbobrick: Unit bearing has been the standard name for this type of arrangement since forever. I'd be concerned if someone calling themself a mechanic was unfamiliar with the term. Maybe in Vegas they talk like that. I never heard it either. we just call them wheel bearings. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 7:30:46 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: lol K https://i.imgur.com/jllpygk.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/XFmjyc6.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/VS19TS1.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/X0QB3tm.jpeg They don't call me Big Dick Daddy from Cincinnati for no reason. I also do heavy equipment but I'm getting old. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DayandNight1701: Originally Posted By turbobrick: Unit bearing has been the standard name for this type of arrangement since forever. I'd be concerned if someone calling themself a mechanic was unfamiliar with the term. lol K https://i.imgur.com/jllpygk.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/XFmjyc6.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/VS19TS1.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/X0QB3tm.jpeg They don't call me Big Dick Daddy from Cincinnati for no reason. I also do heavy equipment but I'm getting old. |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 7:53:58 PM EDT
[#48]
Man, that Tiger Tool is the best thing since sliced bread for axle joints. Do them right on the tailgate.
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Posted: 5/12/2024 8:06:37 PM EDT
[#49]
Originally Posted By Waldo: I finally have to replace one in my old 2007 powerwagon. I've pulled them before to change front axle joints, but they were always fine and I just reinstalled them. The reviews on replacements are always shit, doesn't matter if they're Timken, MOOG or any of the parts house brands. A lot of "failed at less than 5000 miles" comments. Stay OE Haven't had luck with moog at all the last 8 years They don't last more then 10,15k miles when I would sell them |
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Posted: 5/12/2024 8:06:50 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By Waldo: The reviews on replacements are always shit, doesn't matter if they're Timken, MOOG or any of the parts house brands. A lot of "failed at less than 5000 miles" comments. Some good, some trash. Customer is responsible for Quality Control and durability testing. Even genuine Timken are Xhinese made now. |
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