User Panel
[#1]
Originally Posted By Johhnyrotten: I’ve heard nothing but good things about Hornady One Shot so I’m giving it a try on my semi auto pistols. View Quote I use it in aerosol for cleaning, CLP mixed with regular oil in a needle oiler for oil stuff. I use a lithium grease on my handgun rails. I use cherrybalmz on my semi auto rifles. |
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"Now none of the frightened soldiers moved, for they saw that cowardice and valor purchased equal plots in the snipers' killing field."
“Everything is hard before it is easy.” |
[#2]
Hoppe's #9 for harder cleaning
Slip2000 EWL for light cleaning and lubrication |
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Why is the sky blue?
What makes the green grass grow? |
[#3]
G96 for a general oil
Tetra Grease when appropriate. Ballistol for manual action wood stocked firearms. |
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[Last Edit: Lawmonkey]
[#4]
Originally Posted By SnoGoRider: For the semi-autos rifles I've been using that Lucas Oil and it seems to be pretty good. During the real hot weather I use the Slip ewl 30 and the extreme Sub-Zero cold weather I use LAW military lubricant. What are you guys using for Lubes for your Glocks? View Quote Break cleaner, Hoppes, CLP |
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[#5]
Lucas, and CLP
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[#6]
Pretty much whatever I have on hand. For the near future it's going to be Shooters Choice products.
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[#7]
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[#8]
Wow, over the decades, I have tried just about everything except Frog Lube. Originally, it was LSA, then Breakfree CLP. After that grease, then TW25b, then Slip 2000 EWL.
Today, I am currently using a concoction of 5w-30 synthetic motor oil mixed with Mobil One Synthetic wheel bearing grease (the reddish/pink stuff). I make it with a consistency somewhere between honey and pancake syrup. Runs well in my AR and pistol. It's cheap and handles heavy use (carbine and pistol classes) with no problems. |
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[#9]
CLP, CLP and CLP…
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[Last Edit: TexanInOhio4]
[#10]
I use mineral spirits, and isopropyl alcohol for cleaning really dirty items that can be submerged (like bolt carriers).
BreakFree CLP for general cleaning a light lubrication/corrosion protection. Hoppes #9 for bore cleaning (and CLP after). Militec-1 grease for sliding surfaces. |
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[Last Edit: Pallas]
[#11]
I’ve settled on Slip EWL and the heavier stuff, and their grease.
The Wilson stuff is nice, made by Lucas. I tried some Go Juice, didn’t really like it. |
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[#12]
For Glocks and similar, I scrub the barrel with whatever penetrating oil and brushes, patch dry. I clean and lube with some kind of CLP. I like a needle applicator to lube.
Rifle bores get 48hr Hoppes 9 soak with wet patches whenever I walk by. I dry fully after 2 days, alcohol swab, then CLP wet as rust prevent. That’s for non chrome bores. For chrome, I just brush and patch with rem oil or similar. BCG gets cleaned with the same. I like to lube ARs with slip 2000. Seems to last longer. |
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[#13]
Leftover Supertech 5w-30 synthetic from car oil changes. All I've used for years.
Have experimented with mixing in powdered teflon and red clay (for a thickener). Enough on hand to last the next 50 years... |
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And then, he arrives at the last item on his bucket list...
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[#14]
One of my favorite cleaners is hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent. Especially good if cleaning after firing corrosive ammunition. You do need to re-lube after use, however.
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[#15]
Recently tried Professor Pew CLP.
Screwy name, but does a good job of cutting carbon. |
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[#16]
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[#17]
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[#18]
Ballistol.
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[#19]
Break free CLP, liquid not aerosol, for cleaning and lube in rifles, Mobil One for lube on handguns.
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Clinging to my guns and religion in Illinois.
Check out what my wife is doing http://yellowtennessee.com/ |
[#20]
I use Mobile 1 with a little STP or Lucas Oil Treatment added to increase the viscosity. Works fine and is cheap.
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[#21]
Hoppes 9 for cleaning
Usually break free CLP for lube |
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I'm not always a dick, just kidding, go fuck yourself.
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[#22]
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[#23]
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Originally Posted By Det0nate: It takes a special kind of retard to argue the wrong side of second grade spelling.
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line? --Swindle1984 |
[#24]
Lubing a firearm is one of the lest demanding, lest destructive uses for a lube. Pretty much anything designed as industrial lubricant will work.
A gun will run just fine on mayonnaise, but it's shit for rust prevention. |
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Originally Posted By Det0nate: It takes a special kind of retard to argue the wrong side of second grade spelling.
What made you pick that particular quote for your sig-line? --Swindle1984 |
[#25]
Brake parts cleaner and 30W ND motor oil
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How come every time there is a shooting, they want to take away the guns from the people who didn't do it?
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[#26]
I've always used regular CLP.
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[#27]
Best tip I ever read online. If you have a new AR10, soak the bolt overnight in Mobile 1 synthetic oil, shake off the excess and install wet. Gun ran so smooth, I repeated the treatment on several AR’s.
Lucas oil is great because it makes less of a mess. |
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[#28]
Originally Posted By mayday: I dont use crap made up by a 5 person company; i go with professionals that need to lube high pressure, high temp machinery that may cost the lives of people if not lubed: Makes metal to metal run like a fine typewritter. Incredible corrosion protection, perfect for high pressure, high temp environments. https://assets.unilogcorp.com/187/ITEM/IMG/2384798.jpg View Quote And great at collecting debris in your action unless you only shoot from a bench. |
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[#29]
Originally Posted By AR-10: I've always used regular CLP. View Quote |
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[#30]
Clp for most firearms if firing non corrosive ammo
Ballistol with water and then straight Ballistol for guns I fired corrosive ammo in. |
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[Last Edit: kychas]
[#31]
Bicycle chain lube
Doesn’t sling off onto your glasses Stays and works a long time https://www.finishlineusa.com/products/chain-lubricants/dry-lube Use the spray. It goes on thin and wet, very thin in a minute it dries |
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[#32]
Mobil 1 5w-30 for lube. Good old Hoppes No 9 for cleaning. Hasn't let me down yet. Used to use Lucas gun oil for a while, but I'm pretty sure that's just their transmission oil. I ended up switching to 5w-30. Way cheaper, works great.
I also have a bottle of the ALG go juice, that stuff seems to work good too, lasts longer than motor oil as well. |
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[#33]
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“There is no sound, no voice, no cry in all the world that can be heard... until someone listens.”
"If a nation expects to be ignorant and free and live in a state of civilization, it expects what never was and never will be." |
[#34]
Lucas.
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[#35]
I know we all have our favorite lubes.
My favorite is EWL. I EWL all things that need lubing. Stays on and does not gum up in cold weather. Also, apply it with a micro oiler which allows me target and to get into tight places without over lubing. |
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[#36]
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"Such predicaments! I must forge ahead!"
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[#37]
Cleaning? Ballistol
Lube? Lucas Extreme Duty, or Mobil One 10w-30. The Lucas Extreme is amazing stuff for suppressed .22s. I also only use bore snakes on my ARs, 22s, and pistols. They get the barrel plenty clean and I’m lazy. I just wipe the gun down with a rag that has ballistol on it, bore snake the barrel a few times, inspect, and then add lube. |
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[Last Edit: Kuraki]
[#38]
Whatever is handy. I do like the bottle of this stuff i have on guns with a lot of bearing surfaces (1911 vs Glock for example).
Geissele Automatics ALG Go-Juice 0000 Very Thin Grease |
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[#39]
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[#40]
Originally Posted By mcantu: people keep saying this but it doesn't mean anything. CLP is a type of lube and a mil-spec, not a specific product. Many companies make a CLP type lube. A few (Radcolube, G96, Breakfree) make CLPs that meet the current CLP mil-spec MIL-PRF-63460F View Quote They mean Breakfree usually. |
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Executive Director, Vast Right Wing Conspiracy
NC, USA
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[#41]
Breakfree CLP - primary
Rem Oil and/or Automatic Transmission Fluid (Dexron III {obsolete} or Allison TES295) Barnes CR-10 Bore Cleaner Sweet's 7.62 For solvents I primarily use denatured alcohol, but will use brake cleaner or Acetone if things are really tough. |
“People will forgive you for being wrong, but they will never forgive you for being right—especially if events prove you right while proving them wrong.”
- Thomas Sowell |
[Last Edit: bafordman]
[#42]
CLP
My SO had a homebuilt 6.5 Grendal AR FTF two years ago, sprayed some CLP and all 20 rounds fired since then have performed flawless and accurate. I have Hoppes 9 for bore cleaning but haven't cleaned anything for several years since I don't shoot accuracy as much as I used to. |
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[#43]
Breakfree CLP works OK for cleaning and short duration lube. It dries out and burns off though. But it really shines for wiping down the exterior of steel surfaces for protecting from wet environments, kind of important in the PNW.
Hoppes is good for a bore cleaner. Use Mpro7 cleaner fairly often as well, it degreases pretty well, so always follow with oil. Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil in 20-30 weights (whatever is handy) works excellent for lubing AR’s. Stays there better than CLP, doesn’t burn off like CLP, doesn’t collect crud like a grease will. If I had just one bottle of lube it would just be Mobil 1- as it needs to be wet and lubed to work, being clean doesn’t matter. All that matters are contact surfaces and friction. When running classes sometimes I would start the day by just having everyone pull their BCG, and hosing them down with some lube, usually repeating at lunchtime. (Although sometimes, if people were not listening enough lately about proper maintenance, I would let them run the rifles as they arrived- til they stopped functioning, just to make a point, then magically fix them with a squirt of lube… sometimes people just have to learn the hard way). Most used cleaning and lubing tool- good cotton Q-tips… |
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a loaded gun won’t set you free, so they say…
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[#44]
Hoppes or Sweet's 7.62 for cleaning. For lubrication I use aa 50/50 mix of mobil synthetic motor oil and transmission fluid. For applications where I want thicker lubrication, I mix some synthetic grease in with the 50/50 motor oil/transmission fluid. So far, it has worked great, but I have only been using it for 5-6 years.
My rationale was that the synthetic motor oil/transmission fluid was designed to work in environments of heat, high pressure and moving parts...just like firearms. I paid around $10 per quart, so for around $20-25 for a half gallon of really good lubricants that I'm still using. I perceive there are two parts to firearms maintenance...cleaning, then lubricating. For long term storage, there could be a third part of maintenance. |
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[#45]
Anything and everything from boretech, including their rods, brushes, jags, etc.
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[Last Edit: STJ]
[#46]
For cleaning
Quick wipe down, CLP on a rag Strip down cleaning, soap & water with a brush Lube, Motor oil. i don't clean them much though. Attached File |
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[#47]
BoreTech for cleaning and Lucas Extreme for lube.
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[#48]
Mobil 1 synthetic, grease and whatever hoppe's shit I have in my cleaning area.
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[#49]
Originally Posted By Genin: Hoppes or Sweet's 7.62 for cleaning. For lubrication I use aa 50/50 mix of mobil synthetic motor oil and transmission fluid. For applications where I want thicker lubrication, I mix some synthetic grease in with the 50/50 motor oil/transmission fluid. So far, it has worked great, but I have only been using it for 5-6 years. My rationale was that the synthetic motor oil/transmission fluid was designed to work in environments of heat, high pressure and moving parts...just like firearms. I paid around $10 per quart, so for around $20-25 for a half gallon of really good lubricants that I'm still using. I perceive there are two parts to firearms maintenance...cleaning, then lubricating. For long term storage, there could be a third part of maintenance. View Quote Does this make sense? |
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[#50]
As a general carbon & powder solvents: Xylene & CRC Chlorinated Brake Cleaner
Some-time use specialty solvents: GM Top Engine Cleaner, Sweet's 7.62 Copper Solvent, Kroil, etc. Lube: Mobil 1 or Lucas Extreme |
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